• Outdoor Retailer 2016

    Outdoor retailer 2016: 

    It's that time of year again, your shop is as busy as it ever is, the rental fleet is maxed out, stores are ordering boats colors that you don't even offer, and the espresso place across the street had an intervention with you last week. They cut you off for your own good, they're concerned about your nerves.  But lucky you! The first week of August is right around the corner so you get to leave the comfort/chaos of your shop/factory and come to the organized chaos of Outdoor Retailer in Salt Lake City, your home away from home. 

    Sea-Lect Designs will be attending again this year and would love to see you come by the booth on your whirlwind tour of the Salt Palace.  If you would like to schedule an appointment with Ryan please E-mail him Ryan@sealectdesigns.com  and let him know you'd like to block out some time to learn more about what we do. 

    Come by the booth to say Hi to Ryan, Jed, Paul, or Matt. Bring snacks and water please, also my feet hurt pretty bad by day two so socks would be a great gift idea. Look forward to see old and new friends alike.

     The details:

    Sea-Lect Designs

    Booth Number: 32062

    E-mail: Ryan@Sealectdesigns.com

    P: 425-252-2149

    OR Exibitor Profile Link: https://n1b.goexposoftware.com/events/orsm16/goExpo/exhibitor/viewExhibitorProfile.php?__id=220

    Sea-Lect Designs

    PO Box 67

    Everett, WA 98105


  • Paddle Clip Kit

    The Sea-Lect Designs Paddle Clip is a one piece construction made out of nylon that ensures that it’s strong and will hold your paddle, net, gaff, or any other pole securely.  The clip mounts flush to the deck of your kayak to help prevent snagging of lines or straps so that the clip doesn’t become a hazard when it’s not in use.  The split in the clip allow for a paddle leash to nest between the ears as well as a paddle ferrule.  Additionally the clip has two integrated attachment points that allows you to attach your leash to. 

    The Paddle Clip kit comes with a Clip, Fasteners (SS nut and bolt and well nuts), and installation instructions that call out the bit sizes and measurements required for the installation.  For more information go to http://sealectdesigns.com/groups/4361-kayak-paddle-clip

  • Hardware Kit for 2016

    For 2016 we developed a series of hardware kits so that when a consumer leaves your store they have everything they will need to successfully install the item on to their kayak regardless of where on the boat they have to mount it.

    The kits include:
    Fasteners: Stainless steel nyloc nut, washer and bolt, well nuts
    Installation instructions: installation instructions provide guide for which drill bits, wrench and other tools you will need for the installation.
    Image on the front to help the customer and in some cases the sales person to best know what the intended use of the item is.

    Why did we include well and nyloc nuts you might ask? Not all installations are created equal, and in many situations you might be able to gain access to the backside fo the mounting surface via a hatch or the cock pit. In these situations the Nyloc nut won’t work so we have included the well nuts so you mount in these situations. We also chose the well nut over the pop rivet so the installer doesn’t need to have specialty tools such as a pop rivet gun.

    The kits become a one stop shop that helps your customer feel confident that when they get home they have all the parts and information necessary to successfully complete the installation.

    For a full list of hardware kits look in the front of the 2016 catalog or follow this link to hardware kits page.  http://sealectdesigns.com/categories/kits/hardware-kits 

  • Missing Pieces in the Paddle and Pole Keeper Kit (K671400-1)

    Dear Vendors/, it has come to our attention that in the spring of this year several of the Paddle and Pole Keeper Kits were assembled without all the components required. The kits are missing 2 of 4 of the Bungee Terminal End with Sleeves in the sealed bag that is inside the kit's clamshell packaging.



    Your kit should include the following:

    Bungee terminal end with sleeve (4)

    One Hole lashing hooks (2)

    1/4" X 18" poly pro shock cord (2)

    Tri-fold pop rivets (6)

    #10-32 x 3/4" pan head bolt EA (6)

    #10-32 nyloc nut (6)

    #10 flat washer (6)

    Installation instructions (1)

    You can check the contents of the package without damaging it by just pulling open the tabs on the clamshell.  If any of the kits you have in stock/bought are missing any of the elements please e-mail info@sealectdesings.com with what you're missing, where you bought it from (if your an end user) and your mailing address and we will get you anything that is missing. 

  • Grand Canyon: Repair Supplies

    Tools are important, but like dancing it takes two to Tango. You will need to supplement your tools with repair supplies.  When I say supplies I’m talking glues, spare parts, tape (lots of it) and more. Below is a picture of some of the items I will be bringing with explanations of their usage or importance. So let’s dive right in.


    1)      GORE-TEX® Repair Kit (x2): If you have any GORE-TEX® garments on your trip (in this modern age I’ll be surprised if there isn’t’) this is a must.  I bring two of these on the trip, they run about $7.00 and come with a one round 3” and one 2” x 4” rectangle patch. These are adhesive backed and can be a little tricky to apply, so be patient when applying them.  Pro tip: when using any adhesives or glues the most important part is prepping the surface. Clean area around tear with an alcohol swab and allow to fully dry before application, this will help the adhesives stick by removing any oils on the fabric.

    2)      Footbrace Hardware with Four Arm Knob (1/4-20 thread 1-1/14” long x2): Nothing puts a damper on a trip like having to paddle a boat that has a broken bulkhead or footbrace.  I keep a spare in my PFD at all times and for this trip will be keeping a pair in my repair kit. Modern whitewater boats the wing-nuts are notorious for coming loose and I’ve been on a couple of trips where people had to find a way to make it work. You can get both of these items from your local SEA-LECT Designs dealer (http://sealectdesigns.com/groups/2724-foot-brace-replacement-hardware-packs and http://sealectdesigns.com/groups/2939-threaded-four-arm-knobs)

    3)      Waxed Thread (x1): A small spool of waxed thread is useful for repairs that need to be sewn.  This thread will also be used with your Sewing Awl that you brought because I previously told you how awesome it is. The wax helps the thread stay tight and prevents it from backing itself out. Pro tip: in the absence of waxed thread dental floss or fishing line makes a good high strength sewing thread in a pinch.

    4)      Nylon Repair Tape (x1 roll): Gear Aid Tenacious Tape™ is good for patching tears in anything nylon.  I use it most frequently patching small holes in my down coat because all it takes is standing too close to the fire pit and next thing you know an errant ember is melting into the thin nylon and creating a downy mess.  Commonly repaired with duct tape I find that it’s easier to just fix it correctly once instead of reapplying duct tape as it wears out. Works well with tent walls, down jackets, and windbreakers.

    5)      Safety Pins (various sizes): Whether you holding together an ACE bandage, temporarily repairing a fabric item, or popping a blister (even though you shouldn’t) these little bent pieces of metal are versatile.

    6)      Super Glue (x2):  Super Glue is great for a variety of issues ranging from gear repair to wound care. I buy a big tube for large repairs and then a pack of small “single use” tubes.  I like the single use because if a tube dries up you’re not totally out of glue and have a couple others. The same goes for many of the adhesives I use.

    7)      303 Aerospace Protectant (x1 8 oz. bottle): I swear by this stuff, it acts as a sun-protectant for your plastic gear as well as a lubricant. If you have any Watershed dry bags on your trip this will help keep the seal lubricated and help with opening and closing the bags. Pro Tip: spray your gear with this before your trip to help prevent sun damage. I spray my PFD at the beginning of every summer and it really helps prevent fading of the material.

    8)      Isopropyl Alcohol (x18 oz. bottle): For cleaning any surfaces you might need to apply adhesives to.

    9)      Electrical Tape: Because you never know when you’ll need electrical tape. 

    10 & 12) Aquaseal and Cotol 240: This combo is a great adhesive to be used on gaskets, dry gear, waders and much more. The Cotol 240 mixed with the Aquaseal decreases dry times to 2 hours for those instances were time is at a premium.

    11)   JB Weld®: For fixing any of those items that aren’t flexible.  Whether you’re fixing stoves, oars, dry boxes or anything else. JB Weld is tough stuff and worth having with you.

    12)   Cotol 240: See #10

    13)   Hose Clamps (pair of each size): Great for fixing propane hoses, oars rights, or just about anything you need to attach to a round surface.  These little guys are tough, strong, easy to use, and versatile so bring a couple different sizes.

    14)   Index Cards (or paper cups, several): For mixing two part glues like JB Weld, Aquaseal and Cotol 240, or raft glues.  I like paper cards and cups because with the raft glues they have some heavy duty solvents that will melt a plastic cup.  Pro Tip: these can be used as shims for filling small gaps in a pinch.

    15)   Aluminum Tube .625” x 6”(x1): A broken tent pole can not only be inconvenient but it can also be dangerous in the wrong conditions. If your tent can’t keep you dry and warm hypothermia is a very possible scenario. These tubes slip over the broken portion of the pole and help keep your tent functioning until you can bring it to REI for a return.

    16)   Cableties! (various sizes): Notice how I put an exclamation point after cableties? THAT’S BECAUSE THEY ARE AWESOME AND SUPER USEFUL. Bring a variety of sizes. http://sealectdesigns.com/groups/2661-cable-tie-mixed-bag 

    17)   Kayak Back Band Ratchet: Like I mentioned before faulty outfitting in your kayak will ruin a trip. With modern outfitting these are pretty ubiquitous and don’t take up much space.  Pro Tip: Go to the local Ski shop and ask the ski techs if they have thrown any of these away fixing people’s snowboards.

    18)   P-Cord (AKA 550 cord): I bring several bundles of this stuff.  Super useful for fixing tents, tarps, or even a broken shoelace. Available at most military surplus stores.

    19)   Shoelace: Even though you brought P-Cord, having shoe laces with the plastic end on them are nice for lacing up a tricky pair of footwear.

    20)   Spare Cam Buckle: (x2): For fixing any busted cam straps.

    21)   Ladder Locks (x2): Breaking a backpack strap on day one of a 21 day trip would be a bummer, having a couple of these in combination with your Sewing Awl will have you back on your feet. http://sealectdesigns.com/groups/2703-webbing-ladder-lock

    22)   Pine Tree Rivets: Modern kayak outfitting uses these to hold the seat pad to the seat; they are by no means essential equipment but will make getting in and out of the boat less of a hassle. http://sealectdesigns.com/groups/2637-pine-tree-rivet 

    23)   Tri Glides 1”(x2): For fixing back pack straps, chest buckles, cam straps, and anything else that uses webbing, these little guys are very useful. 

    24)   Webbing Buckles (x2): Not to sound like a broken record but THESE ARE GREAT. Broken buckle? Not anymore. http://sealectdesigns.com/groups/2702-webbing-buckle

    25)   Spare Valve (complete unit): A leaky valve will be a game changer. Pro Tip: Bring the whole unit so you can cannibalize it and not have to keep track of all the small individual parts.

    26)   Tri Glides 2” (x2): For fixing webbing items that use 2” webbing like your waist belt on a backpack or the rescue harness on your Type V PFD.

    27)   Little Squeezy String Things(x2): Not sure what these are called but when you lose or break one that is for your sleeping bag stuff sack you’ll be happy you had a spare.

    28)   Split Rings (x2): for use with pins for oars or anything else. http://sealectdesigns.com/groups/2638-split-ring

    29)   Zipper Pulls (various sizes): A broken zipper on a tent in the rain seriously sucks. You know how I know? Let’s just say I’ve been there, it’s still too painful a memory to revisit.  Gear Aid makes a tent repair kit that has a couple of different YKK zipper pulls. Pro tip: take that worn out garment, tent or anything else that is in too bad of shape to send to Goodwill and cannibalize these and any of the other little pieces you can pull off of it.

    30)   Buttons (various sizes): Having your pants button blow out will mean you will have hitched up your pants 300 times by the time you get home if you don’t have a couple of these on hand.

    Not Pictured

    Zipper Wax (x1 tube): Modern Dry suits, bibs, and some dry bags have Metal YKK waterproof Zippers,  zipper wax keeps these zippers running smoothly.  The most common reason that these zippers fail is because they get sticky and the user tries to force the zipper pull and tears the fabric near the zipper teeth.  Nip this in the bud and treat your gear right and lube your Zippers (https://www.mcnett.com/m-essentials/zip-tech#27110).

    Duct Tape (every person should have a roll): This item needs no introDUCTion (PUNS!). Stubborn males have been fixing items they don’t understand for decades with this versatile grey tape. The more broken it is the more tape you apply. Have no fear Duct tape is here!

    At the End of the day your repair needs will vary and will change on a trip-by-trip basis, what I have on a 21 day Grand Canyon trip is not going to work for every one and your kit should be designed to fit your needs.  All this looks like a lot of stuff but if you plan right and everyone brings a few items you’ll all be sitting pretty when things go pear shaped.

    If you have any questions, additions, or comments feel free to e-mail me Jed@sealectdesigns.com. I’ll have a few more posts before I take off on the trip so stay tuned.

  • Grand Canyon: Tools

    When doing any type of multi-day trip in a wilderness setting bringing appropriate repair tools for the activity is important.  Whether you are doing a long weekend of backpacking, a week long self-support kayak trip, or a month long rafting expedition down The Grand Canyon; you need to be ready to repair your craft or other essential equipment.  Repairs can do anything from make an essential piece of equipment functional again to a non-essential item comfortable.  A punctured raft means that you won’t be going anywhere but a cracked backpack buckle can mean not being able to comfortably wear your bag.

    In this edition of The Grand Canyon: Being (P)repaired, we will be looking at what tools will be coming down the river with me.  When picking tools for any trip, you need to be realistic about how much you can fit, what you might need to repair (what are the essential pieces of gear), and how exposed you will be once you begin your trip.  For example, on a weekend backpacking trip (one night) you realistically don’t need to bring much. This is because you’re never further than a day’s walk from your car or civilization.  Even the most catastrophic of gear failures can be suffered through as you walk out.  A trip where you are using a vehicle to travel over land or water can be tricky; if catastrophic gear failure of your vehicle occurs, you might be more than a days walk from help.  As you prepare for a trip, considering the difficulty of walking back to civilization in relation to your food rations is something to seriously consider. It’s easy to cover 20 miles in a day on a whitewater river, but trying to carry the same gear in undeveloped terrain could be the beginning of a Homer like Epic.

    The Grand Canyon is a 21 day trip, deep in a river canyon that requires a cornucopia of gear, and has even more opportunities to break or damage that gear. Once you put on, you’re basically by yourself. There isn’t any meaningful opportunities to bring in anything you might have forgotten or replace anything that is broken.  If you break it, you have to figure out how to make it work.

    When selecting tools you need to walk to line between quality and expendable.  For example, I have a high quality Leatherman Wingman that I use all the time and it is a tried and true peice of my kit. For a a tool like a hammer that doesn't require the best craftsmanship I picked up a small metal shaft rubber gripped hammer at the dollar store that I trimmed the grip so it would fit in the ammo can.  So give some consideration to what you'll be bringing on a trip and how those tools might be put to use and what environment they will be subject to.

    All the tools I will be bringing fit in a “50 Cal” ammo can.  These are the most commonly sought after ammo cans used by river runners for personal use and are 6x12x7.5 inches.










     (for more pictures with labels and closeups scroll to the bottom of the page) 


    The Tools that live in the ammo can are as follows:


    Needle Nose Pliers with Wire Snippers

    Locking Pliers (medium size)

    Rivet Tool

    Allen tool (with multiple heads)

    Sewing Awl (with extra waxed thread)

    Scissors (not shown)

    Tool Roll


    Hammer: The hammer is pretty self-explanatory. Sometime you need to indiscriminately bash on something to bend it back into shape, punch a hole in it, force a square peg into a round hole; or because you simply don’t know what else to do. 

    Needle Nose Pliers: Whether crimping an item or bending wire to a desired shape, the needle nose plier is invaluable when doing fine manipulation of an item. 

    Locking Pliers: Known colloquially by their brand name of Vise Grips, locking pliers not only grip items well but can second as a makeshift vise.  In the event that you have a pair of sandals that have the sole coming off you can use a pair of locking pliers and two flat items to act as a clamp to hold the sole in place while your glue dries. 

    Rivet Tool: This is an item that you won’t see on many people’s tools lists.  On past trips I’ve had a welded aluminum dry box crack and have a hinge come loose.  I was cursing not having a rivet tool with us. So before you pack one of these, be sure you’re familiar with it’s usage and application.  You can also use this to repair the T-grip or paddle blade on a rafting paddle in a pinch; this works better and is stronger than duct tape. 

    Allen Tool: This item can also get a little tricky.  I recommend determining if anything you are bringing has allen heads and only bringing those specific keys. If you’re not sure, bringing both Metric and Standard is a good call. 

    Sewing Awl: This is probably one of the most useful tools that you can bring.  With a Sewing Awl you can fix any fabric item.  Some examples include but are not limited to; fixing the strap of chaco sandal, sewing a buckle back on a PFD, mending a strap on a backpack, sewing a spray skirt back together, patching a heavy duty tarp, fixing Velcro, reattaching a buckle onto a cam-strap and much more.  These are particularly useful on heavy fabric that is difficult to pass a standard sewing needle through (nylon strap, heavy canvas, rope, etc.).  They have a heavy gauge needle and the handle make it easier on your fingers.  I bring a wine cork along as a backing to have something to sandwich the fabric with; preventing sewing your finger to whatever project you are working on. Pro tip: practice with this before using it in the field. 

    Leatherman: I keep a Leatherman tool in my day bag to do anything from cutting cheese to pulling out cactus spines.  They are a great tool that should go on just about any wilderness trip. 

    Scissors: Even a Luddite knows the value of this tool.  Need to cut something? Use these. Good for anything from cutting raft material for making a patch or cutting the frayed ends off a weathered camp strap. If you want to avoid material from fraying while you cut, scissors are much better than knives. 

    Tool Roll: The Tool roll differs from person-to-person but ultimately it organizes all the small items that are tricky to keep track of. In mine I keep the following (see picture with descriptions for reference): 


                    Saw with wood and metal blade

                    Sewing needles

                    Pencil (wood not mechanical)

                    Ball point pen (blue)

                    Sharpie (fine point)

                    Razor tool

                    Several small files

                    3/8” drill bit

                    Small scissors

                    Nail clippers


                    Seam ripper

                    Eyeglasses screwdriver

                    One pair latex gloves

                    Multi-head screwdriver

                    Clip light with magnetic base

                    Spool of waxed string (not shown) 

    The Roll itself is a custom made item that I sewed out of duck material using my sewing machine. There isn’t a pattern available so I just winged it and am pretty smug about how it came out considering it was my first sewing project that I took on.  I’ve seen similar items at Joann Fabric and Ben Franklin but these were geared towards the crafter and never quite fit everything that I wanted.  I’ll spare you the details on all the items because some of their uses are fairly obvious but here are the details on some of them.












    Lighter: Fire, being able to create it is a key survival tool. On a long trip you should have more of these than you think you’ll need.  Think Costco quantities. 

    Saw: Having a small saw with both a wood and metal blade is important.  The metal blade can be used to fix broken raft frames by cutting off damaged parts of the tube so you have a clean slate to work with.  The wood blades are good for cutting just about anything that you can’t cut with your serrated knife blade. 

    Sewing Needles: A mix of industrial needles including upholstery needles are good.  I keep a thick needle and waxed thread with my med kit to repair a torn spray skirt in a pinch.  Whitewater kayaks leak enough as it is and a hole in your skirt on a multi-day trip would be brutal. 

    Writing implements: You’ll always need to write or mark items when doing repairs, so having a couple different implements is helpful.  Bring wooden pencils because you can easily sharpen them with a knife. 

    Razor: For fine cutting of raft patch material or other stubborn fabric. 

    Files: A couple different small files and a sharpening stone are useful.  The small files can be used to make a hole larger or to make that stubborn lid close. 

    Drill Bit with Universal Chuck: I bring a 3/8” bit that I can fit into the multi-head screwdriver.  On this trip it might be worth having a hand drill because I have the space. However they do tend to be rather large so I’ll just work with the screwdriver/drill bit combo. 

    Small scissors, nail snips, and tweezers: Can be used for general personal hygiene or other fine manipulation you might need. Pro-Tip: The nail snips are great for cutting fishing line or sewing thread

    Eyeglass screwdriver: Have eyeglasses? Bring these. 

    Multi-head Screwdriver:  Is an important tool that is very versatile. Like I mentioned, I prefer these because I can use a drill bit with a universal chuck. 

    Light: The light with a magnet is a nice item because you can stick any fasteners to the magnet while you work to prevent loss of the little bits.  Also, a separate light is nice while you work in the dark because you can have the light shining at a different angle than your head lamp to get full illumination. 

    With all that said, this is not a hard and fast list of items and tools, what you bring with you should be tailored towards the trip you will be taking. When it comes down to it, your tools should be versatile and be able to cover a wide range of problems and situations.  When you are planning a trip with a group, you have power in numbers.  If everyone on the trip is bringing some tools you can cover most of your bases.  Overlaps in tools between group members is not a bad thing.  If each person has a tool that the other does not, it prevents every person from having to bring some of those large and awkward items. 

    All-in-all, you don’t want your trip ruined because you had gear failure.  Nothing puts a damper on an amazing trip like being forced to suffer because you couldn’t fix a simple tear or broken buckle.  

    If you have any questions or additions to this list feel free to e-mail me or leave a comment. 

    For a comprehensive list of repair items (not compiled by me) follow this link.  It's a well put together list and is in a nice format. Master River Equipment List

    Take it easy and see you on the river.


  • The Grand Canyon and being (P)repaired

    The Grand Canyon.  The Big Ditch.  The Hopi called it Ongtupqa.  The Spanish called it the Gran Cañón.  But to rivers runners around the world we reach for words that do not adequately describe this place.  The name itself gives feelings that the first person to name it such settled on “The Grand Canyon” for lack of a more descriptive and evocative name. 

    Everyone you speak to that has spent time in The Canyon speaks of its beauty and wonder.  John Wesley Powell – the western man credited with exploring the Grand Canyon - said;

    “The elements that unite to make the Grand Canyon the most sublime spectacle in nature are multifarious and exceedingly diverse”.

    Well, maybe not everyone who cast their eyes upon the Colorado as it passes through the Grand Canyon is as convinced.  Joseph Ives who came before Powell in search of mineral wealth stated;

    “It [the Grand Canyon] looks like the Gates of Hell. The region ... is, of course, altogether valueless. Ours has been the first and will undoubtedly be the last, party of whites to visit the locality. It seems intended by nature that the Colorado River along the greater portion of its lonely and majestic way, shall be forever unvisited and undisturbed.

    I’ll cut Lt. Ives some slack and chalk it up to him being a Man of His Time.  Little did Ives know that 157 years later, The National Park system would be granting river permits to allow recreational rafters and kayakers to float the Colorado River through the Grand Canyon.  To river runners around the world it is a coveted permit to win in their lottery system and gain access to the riches of the Grand Canyon.  Opening your e-mail to discover that you have been granted a permit is akin to Charlie finding the Golden Ticket in his Wonka Bar.

    Luckily for us a river trip these days is better organized and equipped than John Wesley Powell (who ran the river with one hand after losing the other in the Civil War at the battle of Shiloh).  Today we have PVC rafts with aluminum frames, dry bags, propane burning stoves, coolers with ice, and cold beer; rather than spoiled bacon and maggot filled flour. Even though we have arrived at the pinnacle of river running technology, we still have to be prepared on the river for the inevitable repairs that need to be made.  Broken equipment could include but are not limited to; broken oars, ripped rafts, fractured frames, punctured PFD’s, defective  chairs, breached dry suits, shredded sandals, busted buckles, and faulty stoves.  

    As I prepare for my own trip through the walls of The Grand, I will be keeping you up to date on the tools, materials, and other DIY items that I will be bringing on the river. These items will insure that when my trip gets to the take out all our gear is still in one piece and any hiccups that we encounter will be easily dealt with.

    Stay tuned to the SEA-LECT Designs blog for updates and if you have any questions, comments or additions send them my way and I’ll include what I can! Info@sealectdesigns.com.

    See you on the River.

  • Pop-Rivets and Zig-Zag Cleats

    (1 comment)

    It has recently come to our attention here at SEA-LECT Designs that while installing the zig-zag cleats with a pop rivet the head of the tool is too wide to fit between the posts of the cleat preventing the tool from properly resisting the head of the rivet.  Have no fear we have come up with a solution to this little issue.

    Step 1) Instead of putting the head of the rivet flat against the base of the cleat, place a #10 bonded washer under the head which helps raise the shank of the rivet enough that the tool can grip it.














    Step 2) Add as many as is necessary washers over the shank to provide a surface the face of the rivet tool can resist against to create compression in the rivet.  Try and use a washer that has a hole that is a similar diameter of the shank of the rivet, that way the washers don't get out of alignment.  

    I have used a couple washers as well as the mounting hole of a pop-rivet pad eye.  Really you can anything that gives it the correct amount of elevation but is solid enough to create resistance.














    Be sure that you push hard against the head to prevent the wings of the rivet from working there way out from under the washer. If there is too much gap between the various parts it's possible for the wing to form on the wrong side of the mounting surface.











    If you have any questions regarding this feel free to e-mail or call me at Info@sealectdesigns.com or 425-252-2149.  Thanks and happy paddling.

  • DIY Paddle Storage for the Discerning Kayaker

    The spare paddle is an essential piece of gear for all Sea Kayakers. Whether you’re an expedition paddler doing a speed circumnavigation of Prince Edward Island or you’re a weekend warrior doing an overnight in the San Juan Islands you need to secure your paddle in a fashion that you can easily deploy and store with minimal fuss. Here at SEA-LECT designs we have your DIY solution to this 

    I have re-purposed our Side Mount Rod Holder (round back style) to work as holders on the deck of your boat. After seeing several DIY projects that used PVC piping or other plumbing products I figured the Side Mount Rod Holders would be perfect for this considering the flanged opening allowing for easier placement into the tube when storing from the cockpit problem. 

    What you’ll need:

    - Side Mount Rod Holder x2 (Part number K325135-1 black, K325136-1 White)
    - ¼” bungee cord 1’-6” long depending on width of safety lines on boat and mounting location (K655086BK)
    - Locking Bungee Hook with Sleeve (Part number K653361-1)
    - Pliers or channel lock pliers
    - Drill
    - 5/16th inch Drill bit 










    Step 1: On the back side of the tube (side with 2 holes), widen the hole on the opposite end from the flared opening (see picture below) using the 5/16th drill bit. This will allow the ¼” bungee to pass through the hole. 







    Step 2: determine the length of bungee you wish to use, by noting where on the deck they will be mounted. Use a length of bungee that is about 75% of the total width of the location you will be mounting.  This way the bungee is in the stretched position when the holders are installed and keep everything snug.

    Step 3: Affix the first clip to one end of the bungee. The sleeve is snug so pushing it on with your fingers can be difficult; to ease this process I used the pliers to squeeze the sleeve in place.

    Step 4: Pass bungee end through the widened hole you created and the opposing hole, slip the sleeve over the bungee, slide bungee into hook end, and then slide sleeve in place. Be sure that the hooks are both facing the same direction so they sit nicely on your safety lines.


    Step 5: Secure your paddle and get on the water and enjoy your day off!

    Additionally you may want to make an additional bungee with hooks to place over the whole unit to keep the tubes from rattling around once you’ve used your spare but isn’t a required part of it. I hope this helps solve any issues you might have had. Happy paddling and see you on the water.


  • Beyond the Boat: Where's Your Whistle?

    In all outdoor sports the importance of being able to communicate effectively in an emergency could mean the difference between an uncomfortable moment and a night in the woods.  Whether you’re getting the attention of your paddling/fishing/skiing partner or emergency personnel like the coast guard/ski patrol/search and rescue, the ability of a whistle to audibly draw attention to yourself is going to be far greater than your vocal cords.

    In this modern age the cell phone, GPS, and Spot Device are becoming ubiquitous in outdoor recreation.  These devices are capable of pinpointing your location and sending that information to the necessary emergency personnel, but once you have people in your rescue zone you still need to be able to draw their attention to you location.  As we all know the majority of our outdoor recreating is done in a variety of terrain and weather, both of these can contribute greatly to one’s ability to be found in a rescue scenario.

    When I go paddling, whether that is whitewater, flatwater, or sea kayaking I keep a whistle tied to the shoulder strap of my PFD, this keeps it close at hand and out of my way.  By keeping it tied to the PFD it will always be there when you need it because like a safe boater you wear your PFD at all times while on the water.  I always try to advise people not to put it in a pocket or other storage, having it hanging from your PFD means that you can quickly use the whistle while still maintaining eye contact with the object at hand.

    As a backcountry skier and hiker (as wella s a boater) I also keep a whistle secured to the shoulder strap of my back pack.  The skiing and backpacking world still haven’t adopted the whistle as required equipment but that doesn’t mean that it’s not an important part of your emergency preparedness kit.

    The international rescue community uses whistle blasts in combination with hand signals to communicate in less than ideal conditions.  Three long blasts of a whistle is the internationally recognized signal for emergency, one blast means “look at me”, two blasts means “stop and look at me”.  While paddling or travelling in the backcountry while using hand signals remember your new mantra; “always point positive”.  Basically you always want to point in the direction you WANT to go, don’t point towards the hazard.  Before you start your trip you should be sure that all the members of your party are aware of what the signals mean and are in agreement to their usage.

    At SEA-LECT designs we carry two styles of whistles, the Life Jacket Whistle (K571260-1) and the Police Whistle (K571286-1).  If you’re in a wet or aquatic environment (ie rainforest, river, ocean) I recommend the Life Jacket Whistle.  Because it doesn’t have an internal "ball", it can perform while wet (whereas the Police Whistle has a ball inside it, and when wet the ball can get stuck and cause it not to perform properly).

    While having fun adventures in the outdoors remember to remain aware of your group and what they’re doing, changing weather conditions, and changing group dynamics.  Have fun and be safe and hopefully you’ll never need to use your Whistle.  Happy paddling.

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Mailing Address:      
SEA-LECT Designs     
P.O. Box 67     
Everett, WA 98206